Air Conditioner Repair Checklist
1. AC Won’t Turn On
There can be a few reasons why your air conditioner won’t start: a tripped circuit breaker, incorrect thermostat settings, a switched off switch or an overflowing condensate drain pan.
Tripped Circuit Breaker
Your system won’t run when you have a tripped breaker.
To see if one has tripped, locate your home’s main electrical panel. You can spot this gray box on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.
- Make sure your hands and feet are free of moisture before you check the panel or breakers.
- Locate the breaker marked “AC” and make sure it’s in the “on” position. If it’s tripped, the switch will be in the middle of the panel or “off” spot.
- Firmly shift the breaker back to the “on” location. If it immediately flips again, leave it alone and get in touch with us at 562-286-6624. A fuse that keeps flipping may signal your residence has an electrical issue.
Inaccurate Thermostat Settings
If your thermostat isn’t signaling your AC to run, it won’t turn on.
The first step is ensuring it’s on “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your air conditioner will probably not turn on. Or you could get heated air coming from vents since the furnace is going instead.
If you have a regular thermostat:
- Replace the batteries if the monitor is blank. If the screen is displaying scrambled letters, replace the thermostat.
- Check the correct option is showing. If you can’t update it, reverse it by dropping the temperature and pushing the “hold” button. This will force your AC to work if programming is not right.
- Attempt to set the thermostat 5 degrees below the space’s temperature. Your AC won’t cool if the thermostat is identical to the space’s temperature.
Once your thermostat is calibrated properly, you should start getting refreshing air fast.
If you have a smart thermostat, including ones manufactured by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, go to the manufacturer’s website for assistance. If you still can’t get it to work, contact us at 562-286-6624 for help.
Your system probably has a power-cutting device by its outdoor unit. This device is commonly in a metal box hung on your home. If your AC has recently been worked on, the switch may have inadvertently been put in the “off” location.
Clogged Condensate Drain Pan
Condensate drain pans keep the surplus condensation your AC takes out of the air. This pan can be situated either below or inside your furnace or air handler.
When there’s an obstruction or backed up drain, water can build up and prompt a safety setting to switch off your system.
If your pan involves a PVC pipe or drain, you can clear the surplus water with a formulated pan-cleaning tab. You can get these capsules at a home improvement or hardware store.
If your pan includes a pump, locate the float switch. If the switch is “up” and there’s water in the pan, you may need to replace the pump. Contact us at 562-286-6624 for assistance.
2. AC Blows Warm Air
If your equipment is on but not delivering cold air, its airflow might be obstructed. Or it might not have enough refrigerant.
Your system’s airflow can be decreased by a blocked air filter or dirty condenser.
How to Change Your Air Filter
A dirty filter can lead to numerous problems, including:
- Lower cooling
- Frozen refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
- Intermittent cooling
- Increased electricity expenses
- Leading your system to stop working more quickly
We recommend replacing flat filters monthly, and creased filters every three months.
If you can’t recall when you last installed a new one, turn off your system totally and remove the filter. You can locate the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It could also be found in an adjoining filter case or wall-mounted return air grille.
Tilt the filter up to your light fixture. If you see a lot of dust, you certainly should buy a new filter.
5 Steps to Cleaning Your Cooling Equipment
Brush, plants and leaves can obstruct your condensing unit. This could limit its airflow, make it less energy efficient and change your comfort. Here’s a method you can follow to get your equipment operating properly again.
- Switch off the electrical current totally at the breaker or outside device.
- Remove greenery waste around the AC. Once you’ve cleared all the clutter within a two-foot range, you can use a fine-bristled brush or vacuum to slowly clean the equipment’s fins. Deformed fins can also hurt efficiency, so you can attempt to correct them with a blunt knife.
- Take off the upper part of your system and pull out any leaves or grass clippings that has accumulated. Then wipe down the condenser fan with a damp rag.
- Use a hose nozzle to gingerly remove gunk off the fins from inside the unit. Be careful to avoid getting moisture on the fan motor.
- Put the top back on and restore the power.
When cooling units don’t have adequate refrigerant, they’ll struggle to remove heat and humidity from the air.
Here are a couple of symptoms that your unit is losing refrigerant:
- It takes a long time to refresh your house and you’re continually turning down the thermostat.
- Cooling coming through the registers isn’t as chilled as it should be.
- You’re noticing whistling or gurgling noises when the air conditioning is on.
- Your evaporator coil is iced over because it’s having an issue handling humidity.
Think your equipment is leaking refrigerant? You need a authorized heating and cooling service specialist to fix the leak and restore the right level of refrigerant in your unit. Reach us at 562-286-6624 for support.
3. AC Not Blowing Enough Air
When it appears like you’re not getting enough chilled air, there’s likely a clog or separation somewhere in your air conditioning system.
- The first stage is looking at your air filter. Replace it if it’s dusty.
- Then check the vents are clear across your rooms.
- If you’re still not getting ample cold air, you should have your ductwork inspected by a pro like YES R&M Inc.. Your ductwork may need to be repaired or hooked up again in difficult areas like your attic, basement or crawl space.